Planting onions video

Planting onion sets

Before planting onion sets, they are sorted out, discarding dry, damaged, and sprouted onions. You can immediately sort the planting material by size in order to plant small, medium-sized and larger onions separately.

This calibration helps to obtain more uniform seedlings. The smallest onions can be planted earlier than others (even in cold soil): they are less susceptible to bolting.

Preparing onions for planting video.

    Preparing seedlings for planting. Onion sets purchased in a specialized store in the spring are heated at a temperature of about 40 degrees 2-3 days before planting. A warm place for eight hours can be found under the radiator. Warming up onions stored in a cold place is necessary to reduce the number of bolting plants during the growing period. Summer residents usually store onion sets purchased in the fall in a warm place, so there is no need to warm them up before planting.

Hot water treatment will have the same effect. The sevok is poured into a container and filled with water heated to 50 degrees for one minute. Then immediately cool the onion with cold water, after a minute the water is drained.

If you have the time and desire, you can soak the onions for eight hours in a nutrient solution: a teaspoon of complex fertilizer per 3 liters of water. Then, without washing, the onions are dipped for five minutes in a cherry-colored potassium permanganate solution. Then rinse with clean water. Treatment with potassium permanganate can be replaced by soaking in a working solution of the fungicide Maxim-dachanik (2 ml per liter of water, treatment time - 30 minutes).

To make it easier to work with onion sets, they are placed in a cloth bag. After processing, the seedlings are dried and planted. Before planting, you can cut off the upper part of the dry neck of the bulbs so that the scales do not interfere with the emergence of leaves.

Planting onions in spring video.

    Preparing the beds. It’s good when the bed is prepared in the fall. To make it more convenient to care for onions, the bed should not be made wide. You should be able to reach any onion, because often the beds have to be cleared of weeds manually, and gardeners most often loosen the rows with rippers with short handles so as not to damage the onions.

Choose a sunny, well-ventilated place for planting. Peas, potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, radishes, and beets are considered good predecessors. If the soil is heavy or, conversely, too light (sandy), organic fertilizers are added during digging. This fresh organic matter has a bad effect on the onion harvest, but good compost or humus is good for it (up to a bucket per sq. m).

In clay soils, you can additionally add coarse sand, in sandy soils - clay soil (a bucket per sq. m). From mineral fertilizers, add two tablespoons of superphosphate and a tablespoon of urea, or even better, two tablespoons of complete or complex fertilizer per square meter. m.

How to plant seedlings video.

    Planting seedlings. Onion sets are planted at approximately the same time as early potatoes. You shouldn’t be late with planting: in hot weather, the onions take root worse. Subsequently, this negatively affects the plants’ ability to obtain food and moisture, and resist drought, diseases and pests.

In the garden bed, make shallow grooves 20-25 cm apart from each other, spill them with water warmed in the sun and plant onions 8-10 cm apart from each other (press them slightly). Then the onions are covered so that their shoulders are at a depth of 2-2.5 cm.

If planted too deeply, the formation and ripening of onions is delayed, and the heads may have an irregular shape. If planted shallowly, the bulbs will suffer from lack of moisture and will stop growing before they have time to gain weight.

If everything is done correctly, within a week you will see green beaks of the bulbs in the garden bed.

Growing onions

    How to water. When caring for onions during the growing season, it is important not to let the soil dry out.The bulbs, without receiving water, go into a dormant state and will no longer grow even after watering is resumed. Depending on the weather and the mechanical composition of the soil, onions are watered 1-2 times a week during the first growing season. When the young leaves stop growing, the bulbs have formed, watering is gradually reduced, and stopped two weeks before harvesting.

It is not advisable to water with cold water. After each watering or rain, the soil is loosened shallowly between the rows, being careful not to damage the onion leaves. Before loosening, you can sprinkle wood ash between the rows (against onion flies).

Growing onions video.

    Weeding. The presence of weeds in the onion bed also negatively affects the quality of the harvest. In an unkempt area, the onion feather is poorly ventilated and therefore susceptible to fungal diseases; the onion fly thrives on soil shaded by weeds. As a rule, onions are grown in small quantities in country gardens, so it is easy to weed them, pulling out weeds that have not had time to grow stronger from the moist soil.

    What to feed. During the season, onions grown from sets are fed 2-3 times. The first feeding, which is carried out three weeks after emergence, should activate leaf growth: a teaspoon of urea or a glass of mullein infusion, bird droppings per 10 liters of water. The second feeding is given to stimulate the growth of the bulbs when they reach the size of a walnut: 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate (extract), or a tablespoon of complex fertilizer per 10 liters of water.

    When to clean. But growing onions is half the battle. It is important to remove it in time and prepare it for storage.When onions are ready for harvesting, fully formed bulbs acquire a characteristic color for the variety, the neck becomes thinner, the leaves droop, begin to turn yellow, and dry out. Depending on the ripening time of specific varieties, this can happen in mid-summer or autumn. It is impossible to be late with harvesting, especially in the fall: rains can bring ripened onions out of dormancy: they will resume growth and will not be stored.

The onion is dug up with a pitchfork and pulled out of the ground by its leaves. Without trimming the leaves, the bulbs are dried for two weeks in a well-lit, ventilated place. Then they are woven into braids and hung to dry, or the leaves are cut off, leaving a neck 3-4 cm long. After trimming, they are dried for another week. Dried onions are placed in boxes and stored in a dry place at room temperature.

Planting nigella onions.

Obtaining marketable bulbs from seeds within a season is the cheapest option for summer residents. I bought a bag of seeds and provided my family with at least fresh onions for the fall. In addition, the varietal diversity of onion seeds is richer than sets. You can plant onions that differ in color, ripening time, and pungency of taste. In addition, by thinning dense crops in the summer, you can provide your family with vitamin-rich greens.

How to plant nigella video.

Some people plant nigella onions directly in the beds, others grow seedlings at home and then plant them in open ground. The seedling method of planting gives plants not only a race in time (while the seeds sown immediately in the garden bed germinate, the planted seedlings have time to take root in a new place and begin to grow), but also other advantages. Seedling plants are easier to care for because they are immediately planted at the required distance (or a little closer).

It is easier to keep a bed of onion seedlings free of weeds.By the time the onions, planted with seeds immediately in open ground, emerge, the weeds have time to cover the bed with a continuous carpet. Weeding between rows helps reduce their numbers when radishes are sown along with onion seeds, the rapid emergence of which marks the boundaries of the rows.

Still, it is difficult to fight weeds in a bed of onions sown with seeds, since the seedlings are weak and are easily pulled out along with the weeds.

Seedling onions are a completely different matter. Firstly, it is planted on a bed, the surface of which is loosened, knocking down the emerging weeds. Secondly, the onion is clearly visible immediately after planting and from the first days it is easy to weed it and loosen the rows in the garden bed.

Several times less seeds are spent on growing seedlings than when sowing directly into a garden bed. This is quite understandable: in a seed box it is easier to maintain optimal conditions for friendly shoots: temperature, soil moisture, crop density. In addition, the productivity of seedling onions is higher; it is not inferior to the productivity of onions grown from sets.

Nigella onion planting and care video.

The fact that seedling onions do not shoot and ripen well has a positive effect on yield and quality. And labor costs are reduced, as we have already seen: there is no need to thin it out, less effort is spent on weeding.

The soil for planting seedlings is prepared in the same way as for planting onion sets: good humus or compost, superphosphate for autumn digging, and a little urea in the spring. Before planting, seedlings are hardened off in the open air (at least a week). Outdoors, the bow feather becomes stronger. The day before planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, and an hour before planting - again.

If part of the onion is not planned to be used for greens, seedlings sown in March (by mid-April they should have 3-4 true leaves) are immediately planted at the required distance - every 5 cm in the row. The row spacing is 20 cm. Varieties that form large bulbs are planted, increasing the distance between plants to 10, and between rows to 40 cm.

The leaves and roots of the seedlings selected from the box are shortened so that they can better take root in open ground. This procedure is especially important if the onions are planted in dry weather and the roots are exposed when taken out of the seedling box (the soil has fallen off from them). When planting, trimmed roots do not bend, and shortened leaves evaporate less moisture.

Plant onions, trying not to cover the growing point. The soil around the roots is compacted after planting. It is better to plant on a cloudy day or in the evening. It is better to plant weak plants separately - on greenery. After planting, water and mulch the bed with compost or humus.

Ten days later, when the onion has taken root in a new place, it is fed for the first time, stimulating growth: a teaspoon of urea or a glass of mullein, bird droppings per 10 liters of water. The second feeding is carried out with complex fertilizers with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium (a tablespoon per 10 liters of water) to help the growth and ripening of the bulbs.

About a month before harvesting, while loosening the row spacing, the soil is raked away from the bulbs. This promotes the formation of larger bulbs with thin necks (these are better stored).